
A car that will not start is the one job that cannot wait, and it is the one where guessing costs the most. Most are resolved on the spot. The ones that are not get a straight answer quickly rather than an hour of trying.

Does it turn over, and has anything changed. Those two answers cover most of the possibilities before anybody travels.
If it turns over but will not fire, you are looking at fuel, spark or timing, and a crank sensor is a surprisingly common answer. If it does not turn over at all, it is battery, starter or an immobiliser.
Either way we come to the car rather than having it recovered first. Recovery to a garage that then diagnoses it is two costs where there is usually only need for one.
If it does turn out to need a workshop, you get told early and clearly, with what we found, so the place it ends up is not starting from nothing.
Wherever it is, including a work car park.
On siteThe first thing ruled in or out.
AlwaysStarter, solenoid and feeds.
IncludedWhere it cranks but will not fire.
IncludedSo most jobs finish on the first visit.
StockedIf it needs recovery, you hear it fast.
No stallingDoes it crank, and did anything change beforehand.
Same day wherever the day's run allows.
Battery, starter, fuel, spark or security.
Most are, with parts carried on the van.
What it needs and where, if it is a workshop job.
Registration and postcode. We will tell you what the car is, which service it is due on its own mileage, what that costs and when a van can get to you.
From £189, about three hours on your driveway
Petrol · 1800cc · first registered 2010
47,125 at its last MOT, worked out across 6 tests
Prices are what the job starts at for a car this size; anything the van finds is quoted before it is done. Vehicle and mileage information comes from the DVSA record. Contains public sector information licensed under the Open Government Licence v3.0.
Same day wherever the run allows, and often within a couple of hours. Ring rather than emailing if you are actually stuck.
Fuel, spark or timing. Crank sensors are a common culprit, especially when a car cuts out and then refuses to restart while hot.
Battery, starter or security. A single loud click usually points at the starter rather than the battery, though it is worth testing both.
You will be told quickly rather than after an hour of trying, along with what we found so the workshop is not starting from scratch.
No-start call-outs go wherever the car stopped, and they get priority over booked work when somebody is genuinely stranded.